From the CDT

By Jessie Faith

Well, today is my 14th birthday, and it’s going to be different from any other birthday that I’ve ever had. I woke up this morning lying on the floor of our “Mother Ship” trailer - not where I had originally planned to be. I was expecting to wake up in our tent wrapped up in my nice down sleeping bag at Gravel Lake.



It was about mid morning yesterday when our plans got so mixed up. We had spent the night in a vacant rustic ranger cabin, complete with a natural Jacuzzi - the rangers had built a awesome pool in the creek and it was surprisingly warm and relaxing. Our cabin was small, but bug free and the family of marmots living underneath the floor was very entertaining.

We woke up to a huge storm brewing behind the cabin and we did all we could to get out before it hit because we had 12 river crossings to do that day. We did manage to miss the storm but that was because it moved of up north and we were walking west. Our route was a trail called Enos cut off trail. We had read in a log book in the ranger cabin that it was a very difficult trail to find, but we had no problem what so ever.



We did our first five stream crossings through Enos creek. At the first one we looked at it and determined that we were going to just have to suck it up and march right on through with boots on and change into dry shoes after all the crossings. We were in thick willows, with steam noise and wind so as bear warning in addition to the bells the burros were wearing Cody and I sung two different songs at the top of our lungs -“Dixie” was mine, and Cody’s was “Oscar Meyer, Bologna”. We walked around a corner and there was a very big obstacle in front of us.



Not a grizzly, it was a huge river, which had been misnamed Pacific “Creek” - probably running 600 CFS in a gorge and dropped 200 feet per mile with heavy rapids. Our route meant we had to cross, not once, but 3 times in the next few miles. Dad tried to cross with a rope (he would have put it up as a zip line for us and our gear), but the water was too cold (40), too deep (5+ feet), too fast (like a runaway train). It was spring runoff at it’s most impressive. The problem of getting the burros across seemed insurmountable. We weighed the factors. It was most definitely not worth the possible loss of life to try and cross the river and the likelihood of losing a person or one of the burros was way too high. It was a frustrating decision to make, but it was a good one, we had to backtrack. It was about to become a 17 + mile day with rain, lightning, mozzies by the flock, and more stream crossings than it was worth counting. Finally, Dad missed a turn right at the end and added a couple more miles and I ended up on the floor of the RV, because it was too crowded in the loft for both Cody and I – Happy Birthday!



So today my plan is to spend it relaxing, showering at the campground, going out for dinner for the first time in 2 weeks, and preparing for our 20+-mile day tomorrow across western Yellowstone. It’s raining and the ranger just told us snow 1-2 feet deep is still on that trail. It’s is going to be Mom’s, Cody’s, and my longest day ever. I am looking forward to it!



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Bobby. Journal Entry. Northern Wind River Range, WY

May 31st. This is the day we have been waiting for and working towards for so long now. Day 1, heading north to Canada.

So cold this morning at daybreak – 20 along the shores of the misty Green. Snow at 9,000 ft. but clear, promising. Rangers felt the route would be undoable – too snowy, “snow pack 150% of normal,” too early “we’re not putting trail crews out for 3 more weeks.” “No graze for the burros yet.” But we have to try. We have to start. We have 6 months and no days to burn.

Out of the trailer, burros saddled, packs on, last sip of coffee, section of the lesson, we’re off, up the banks of the Green towards Pinon Ridge 8 miles off and lunch.

A thought from the Bible that came to mind this morning speaks of “being able to comprehend the breadth, and length, and depth, and height” of the divine and creation.

How memorably that has unfolded before us today in the majesty of this natural creation. The birds rising off the Green this morning...tundra swans, violet green swallows, sandhill cranes, teal, mallards, scaups along the sage, yellow warbler, killdeer, towhee, jay; in the forest woodpecker, redtail...

As we walked, pronghorn running along a distant hill, elk grazing, still, cow mosse and new calf moving below us, wolf track in the mud, bear track in the snow, small black bear, then massive, heavy tracks in the sand, grizzly!

Majesty of the natural world and us a part.

The Winds fade behind now as the Tetons rise ahead. Progress, northward. This is the beginning.

Highlight of the day: Jessie Faith stepping square into a gooshy cow pie with bare feet at lunch :)

June 3rd. Sheridan Pass, Continental Divide, WY.

In moments, things happen that imprint on thought forever. Camped on a dry island of needles beneath 4 limber pines in the midst of vast reaches of snow covered meadow we were poised to se whatever crossed above or below us.

A red fox at dawn slinked along after mice. Ravens pestered. A feather dropped down near me; a gift for my hat. Then glancing up as I packed the pannier...GRIZZLY! Sanding. Sixty yards. Arms across his chest. Head cocked huffing the scent. He dropped to all fours and ran. All looked up. Natalie’s first sight of a griz was snow flying, a rippling brown coat with blonde tip highlights. Jessie Faith and Cody’s first bear in the wild was brown rump motoring up the hill. Deso...oblivious. Burros...ears perked and watching.

Then, amazingly, not 15 minutes later, a second larger grizzly, black brown emerging from the trees above us, laboring in deep snow, seeing us, off in an instant. Did I just see that? Yes. My mind plays it back. Grizzly, standing, looking. Grizzly, bounding. Memories now, but mine forever.